Travel and Personal

A Tough Weekend in Kisumu

By Dweep Chanana ⋅ December 5, 2005 ⋅  Email this post ⋅ Post a comment

It has been a hectic weekend. On Friday, the World Economic Forum organized a workshop titled “Business Action to Halve Hunger”. That was followed by a field trip to Kisumu on Saturday. The three days were tough work - speeches, free lunches and dinners, and driving around Kisumu. Decided to stay an extra day at Kisumu (at my expense) to see the area. I know - its tough work - but someone has to do it!

Kisumu is a small but sprawling dusty town on the edge of Lake Victoria. The fourth largest city of Kenya, and even more Indian than parts of Nairobi. Thirty minutes by air, it is the gateway to much of Western Kenya, with a warm, humid climate best known as a breeding ground for malaria carrying mosquitoes.

The most common point to access the lake around Kisumu is Hippo Point, where you can rent a boat for 1-2 hours to see Hippos and assorted wildlife and birds. I’m not much of a wildlife fanatic, but gladly extended by trip from 1 to 1.5 hours midway. Watching kingfishers hover in the air, dive, and retrieve the fish is live-action at its best. Once again, I regretted not lugging my heavy Nikon D70 with me. If you go, take a serious telephoto lens for all the otters, kingfishers, egrets, and the like.

Then there’s the Kisumu Yacht Club. Few yachts to be seen, but it has a lovely garden with a very members-only atmosphere. If you are nice to the guard, he will let you in for a walk, till someone politely kicks you out. The menu, not surprisingly, is highly Indian. And the view the best, with a pleasant breeze.

Lake Victoria is a misnomer. It is more a sea, but the vastness is not visible from ground level. Kisumu is located on the edge of a large bay. From Hippo Point, you can discern very distant hills that seem to be where the lake opens up to the main body of water in Uganda and Tanzania. It is only when you fly out, that you realize those hills are only a third of the way to the main water body. The horizon is very misleading. Lake Victoria is a sea - 64,000 sq. km. - the second largest fresh-water lake in the world.

There’s also the Kisumu Museum. Cheap, at Ksh. 200, even for non-residents, it is a good 1hr outing. On Sundays the most prominent feature is the lecture hall turned church, that belts out some very vibrant music. If you happen to stray too close, they will welcome you in with a smile and several curious glances. But the museum is also home to lots of stuff animals, a snake pit, a crocodile, and turtoises from 5 to 500 cms.

Finally, there is Tilapia Beach - for fresh Tilapia - whole, deep-fried fish. Not recommended for the view or for health freaks, go only if you like the local specialty in a local environment. The place is frequented by the well-off Africans that can afford to drive down. Bargain hard, because they will overcharge you - this is not a standard restaurant.

All told, Kisumu is an interesting town for a day. If I had the opportunity to go back, I would, however, start my day early, heading out into the vastness of Lake Victoria - by motor boat or by matatu around the bay and onto the islands. Out there, one can find the Nile Patch - a monstor fish that grows to well over 250Kg. Out there is also the true horizon and the other bank of the Lake. I may not see it, but it is worth looking for.